White Gold or Platinum?

White Gold or Platinum | Which is the Better Choice | Facets Singapore

10:25

Which precious metal should I choose ?

White gold and platinum are amongst the most popular precious metals for fabricating fine jewellery and diamond engagement rings, so the question we often get asked is –

Which one is for me?

Though they may look identical at first sight, sharing a polished silvery hue, there are in fact various attributes which set white gold and platinum apart.

To make the right choice, let’s take a look at how the two metals compare in terms of appearance, durability and cost.

Appearance & Composition

As mentioned previously, white gold and platinum look similar in colour and feel, but are materially quite different. While platinum is naturally greyish-white in tone, white gold is brighter and whiter.

White gold is a lovely rich to the feel metal and often the more popular choice for diamond jewellery. It is noteworthy that white gold is an alloy of pure ‘yellow’ gold combined with a variety of white base metals.

It is most commonly available in 14 Karat (58.5 % pure gold) or 18 Karat (75% pure gold) versions and consists of yellow gold combined with other white metals such as palladium, silver or nickel to give it specific physical properties before electroplating with hard wearing rhodium to give it that shiny tough ‘white’ finish. It is this appearance that gives white gold jewellery that bright shiny look (shinier than platinum) when first viewed in a showroom.

Platinum for jewellery or PT950, on the other hand is considered one of the purest and most stable metals with a 95% platinum content (mixed with 5% iridium or cobalt for strength). PT 950 is about 30 % denser (hence heavier) than white gold and results in finished jewellery that looks and feels more luxurious.

On the downside, it is a heavier metal to wear and carry, so this is an important consideration if deciding between the two. We suggest trying on both white gold and platinum models (if available) to compare and see if you are comfortable with the additional weight of platinum.

Wedding Bands - 18K WG unplated, 18K rhodium plated and platinum

Notice the yellowish base METAL colour of the unplated white gold (far left) and the silvery-grey tone of the platinum - as compared to the rhodium plated white gold ring in the middle.

Durability & Maintenance

It is a common belief that being ‘precious metals’ and because they look similar, white gold and platinum will also perform the same over time. It is important to understand that they both age and handle surface abrasion in differing ways.

In comparison to platinum, white gold is harder, less malleable and less likely to bend but could be more prone to surface damage due to abrasion and metal stress - sometimes due to incorrect alloying. When white gold jewellery appears visibly scratched, the surface coating is effectively etched away and the underlying metal is exposed.

Eventually, and with constant use, the white rhodium plating can fade completely to lay bare the underlying yellow toned metal which is predominantly yellow gold. A round of careful polishing and a new layer of rhodium will restore it to its original beauty.

In the case of platinum, surface or slightly deeper scratches merely shift the surface metal overtime from one spot to an adjoining area, resulting in a soft well-worn look called a patina, which visibly dulls its original shiny appearance. Some people prefer this well worn look as it brings out the comparative sparkle of the diamond(s) in the jewellery.

Platinum is also a stronger, less rigid and a more durable metal; 30% heavier than 18K white gold. Being so, it loses very little surface material due to wear and tear. In theory, it should withstand many more years of use over white or yellow gold without the need for refurbishing. The durability of platinum is one of its strongest advantages.

White gold is more easily worked and fabricated than platinum, having a lower melting point and a less dense structure. By comparison, platinum requires experienced craftsmen adept at high temperature fabrication (1700°C).

A 14K or 18K gold alloy is preferred for use in intricate well defined jewellery designs where structural strength, high polish, hardness or springiness is required (eg: earring backings or locking clasps)

In fairness to both metals, a well-made piece of jewellery in either metal should last for generations.

Cost

A key factor in determining one’s choice of metal when creating jewellery is price. In the context of the present, it is no longer a toss-up between the two metals as to which is the more affordable option.

White gold has for decades past had a price advantage of anywhere between 40-60% over platinum as gold has all along trailed platinum on price. That situation began to reverse in the past 7-9 years and gold (yellow or white) no longer holds that advantage.

Particularly so, in the past 2-3 years, the tables have turned drastically and now 18K gold tops platinum in price by anywhere between 70 to 90%, making platinum the front runner's choice (if weight is not a concern).

However, higher labour and fabrication costs for platinum, and the denser nature of this metal means the use of 25 - 30% more weight over the same piece made in white gold. This does narrow the advantages of a cheaper base price for platinum, while still maintaining an attractive price advantage for a finished piece made from platinum.

Platinum craftsmen and fabricators are far fewer in number worldwide than are gold jewellery craftsmen, making platinum jewellery generally less visible in stores. Gold being widely available and popularly preferred, due to its strong investment appeal over platinum in most populated developing countries, is also a strong reason for the popularity of white gold over platinum.

The factors working in favour of platinum are:

Being harder to work with, it has traditionally been considered a more exclusive and superior metal to gold (remember Platinum Jubilee always comes later than Gold Jubilee)
Platinum alloys used in jewellery are purer with a 95% platinum content
It is 30 times rarer and the annual mined output is a fraction that of gold and is mined in less than five countries worldwide.
Platinum is still considered by many to be a ‘premium’ metal and is generally coveted in developed and wealthier nations due to historical reasons and its low maintenance.

In summary, white gold is considered more 'investment-friendly' and ubiquitous. If it’s a bright shiny look that you are after and convenience is a consideration, I suggest going with white gold

Platinum is no longer the costlier option that it used to be (but that may change in the future) and its enduring nature makes it the obvious choice for the long run. If exclusivity and durability is a desire, then platinum is the clear winner.

Facets is one among a handful of jewellers in Singapore that offer bespoke platinum jewellery fabrication.

Allergic Reactions

When comparing and considering metals to choose from, it is good to bear in mind the likelihood of the wearer encountering allergic reactions or minor skin irritations.

Platinum used in jewellery or PT 950 is a very inert metal being 95 % pure. It is the only hypoallergenic precious metal suitable for jewellery use, besides 24 karat pure gold.

Since white gold is made from a combination of metals, and some folks may likely develop allergies to nickel (for instance), it is best to opt for platinum if you know that you are particularly sensitive.

Other Gold Colours

Three colour (YWR) gold eternity bands.

The ‘white’ look is not for everyone and so luckily in such cases, there are the options of making your jewellery using yellow gold or rose gold alloys.

Yellow Gold

Pure gold is a relatively soft metal. For jewellery use, it almost always needs to be alloyed with moderator metals that give it the workability and strength for daily wear. Yellow gold is pure gold alloyed with metals such as zinc, silver and copper. The base yellow colour changes with the proportion of alloy metals used.

Among all the gold varieties, it is more hypoallergenic than white gold and the easiest to maintain. Yellow gold settings look great on tanned/darker skin tones and match well with diamonds of the warmer (J to M) colour grades as well.

Rose or Pink Gold

Rose gold is made of pure gold mixed with copper and silver alloys. The mix of these metals is what gives it its rosy pinkish colour – the more copper mixed in, the more pink it becomes.

Cost wise, rose gold is marginally more affordable than white because copper as an alloy metal, costs less. It is also more durable than the other two colours of gold because of the inherent strength of the copper but it does take on a surface tarnish over time if the copper content is not well controlled.

However, rose gold is not considered hypoallergenic. Its popularity varies with changing fashion trends and it isn’t as popular as white or yellow gold when it comes to fine jewellery.

Final Thoughts

Ultimately, the metal you choose is largely based on your personal preference, style, skin tone, budget etc.…. so, it is always prudent to be equipped with the knowledge to make that decision yourself.

Platinum is naturally white, hypoallergenic, more durable and heavier - giving it a greater heft and perceived value. White gold has a naturally yellow base, needs periodic re-plating, is brighter and shinier, and weight for weight, presently more expensive than platinum. But it is still the more popular and socially desirable metal choice for high-end diamond jewellery. Both these cool metals are the ideal choice for setting white colourless diamonds (D-H colour).

The bright yellow or rose gold colours bring a warmth to jewellery that perfectly complements the warm tone of tinted near-colourless diamonds (J-M colour). With 14K or 18K yellow gold options, should you change your mind later as to colour, a simple re-plating can completely change the look of the jewellery and enable you to follow the fashion trends of the future – i.e. yellow gold plated into white or rose gold and vice-versa.